Sliding a wave removes our brains out of the ordinary and slips us into the extra ordinary of being there now. No more worries about mortgages or strife of being poor or rich. When you enter the domain of an ocean cylinder, that moment, those split seconds belong to the Zen part of just being. Period.
Bill Hamilton

I passed a beginning surfing class and thought maybe it was time for me to take up surfing when the waves were small…